Perfect Lawns

Lawns are big business in our country, with homeowners spending millions of dollars and many hours manicuring the lawn. But are these showcase thatched patches an environmental hazard?

Water is in short supply, yet 30 percent of East Coast water usage and 60 percent of West Coast water usage goes to watering our lawns. We pour 10 times more chemicals on our lawns than farmers use in their fields, making lawns toxic for wildlife, soil microorganisms and earthworms, and polluting local water supplies. Up to a third of bagged household waste going to our landfills is lawn trimmings and leaves raked from our yards.

Traditional gas-powered lawn mowers are responsible for 5 percent of the nation's air pollution, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. One gas mower running for an hour emits the same amount of pollutants as eight new cars driving 55 mph for the same amount of time, according to the Union of Concerned Scientists.

Carpet-Cleaning Tips

Q: I saw a reader's tip last year where they took their area rugs out and laid them on the snow to clean them. My question is, can I do the same for installed carpet? -- Fred G., Rockingham, Vt.

A: While the snow-cleaning method may or may not work for your installed (wall-to-wall) carpet -- I haven't tried the original tip myself, by the way -- just getting the carpet up and outside would be incredibly difficult and time-consuming. So I do not recommend trying this.
Instead, vacuum your carpet very thoroughly and then rent a steam cleaner from the home-improvement store (some larger supermarkets also rent them) and steam clean the carpet.

If the carpet is so down-deep dirty that it merely laughs at the efforts of a steam cleaner, consider installing new carpet. Very dirty carpet or carpet that's been exposed to flooding or large liquid spills that weren't dried properly has a shorter life span and can harbor molds and bacteria that a steam cleaner may not get to. This creates an unhealthy living environment.

Lady Plumbers Take Note

Q: I would bet that even most lady plumbers would not call an O-ring a washer! To enlighten you, an O-ring is (usually) a round cross-section thing that overall is shaped like an "O." It comes in many diameters and cross-section widths. A washer is more like a solid chunk of hard rubber with a hole in the middle for the screw that holds it in place in the stem. Now you will not make that mistake again. -- R. Muschett, via e-mail

A: Thanks -- nothing like corrections when they come with a side of old-fashioned sexism. I'm sure professional lady plumbers everywhere are relieved to finally know the difference between O-rings and washers.

That said, it is indeed important to note the difference between O-rings and washers, particularly when describing what you need to a home-improvement store employee (male or female) who doesn't know the difference. Mr. Muschett's description of each is pretty accurate.

Quick Concrete Fixes

Q: My concrete driveway runs right up next to the house. I noticed yesterday a crack running from where the driveway meets the corner of the house. How can I fix this? I'm worried that water will seep through the crack into the basement. -- Carl in Trenton, N.J.

A: If the crack is not very wide -- less than 1/8 inch -- and you don't see any water seeping into the basement from that corner, patch the crack with concrete caulk or a concrete patching compound on a dry day.

A wider crack can be temporarily patched by brushing out debris, then filling the crack with sand and covering with waterproof tape. This will stop water seepage for a few days, at least, until you can make the time to permanently patch the driveway.

On a dry day, uncover and brush the sand out of the crack. Using a small chisel and hammer, smooth the inside walls of the crack and angle them slightly so that the crack is slightly wider at the bottom than at the top. Mix up a batch of concrete -- just enough to fill the crack, plus a little extra. Spray a little water from a handheld spray bottle into the crack, then use a trowel to smooth the concrete into the crack. Pack the concrete in firmly until it mounds over the surface; then smooth it even.

Washer Odor Makes Clothes Smell Sour

Q: I read your recent article on dishwasher, and it prompted me to ask about how to deal with an odor from my front-loading washer. When washing, very little detergent is used along with watered-down fabric softener and bleach that is added to the dispensers. The rim and all dispensers are kept clean. This odor makes the clothes smell sour and makes doing the laundry very difficult. Just what can you recommend for getting rid of this odor both in the washer and the clothes? -- Lani B., Kissimmee, Fla.

A: Washer odor is actually pretty common, particularly in areas that are hot and humid much of the year. Odor problems tend to develop over time, even if the washer is not used every day.

The culprit is not dirty dispensers or rims, or even leaks (most of the time). The problem is a buildup of soap scum in parts of the washer that can't easily be reached, such as the outer tub and the inside or just under the agitator.

Couples' Quick Action Checks Condo Flooding

DEAR HAMMER: I wanted to relate to you the recent "fun" my husband and I had with our water heater in the hopes your readers could use the information.

We were hosting a dinner party last week when, near the end of the party, my husband noticed a hissing sound coming from the utility closet. We both ignored it as we said goodbye to our guests. As I began to wash the dishes, I noted that the water was very hot; then it quickly went lukewarm and cold as I rinsed the dishes.

About then, my husband asked, "Who spilled wine in the hallway?" He wiped it up, only to return five minutes later to more liquid. That's when we paid attention to the hissing from the utility closet. Opening it up, we noticed water pooling under the water heater and beginning to spill out into the laundry room and hallway. The hissing sound was water rushing through the cold-water feed pipe into the water heater. Water dripped from the overflow valve and from the bottom of the tank.

Fall Lawn Care

The weather's beginning to cool, and that means it's time to start preparing the yard for winter. Even if you live in warmer climes, the change of season brings changes to your lawn, such as slower growth. Anticipating and preparing for this change will keep your yard healthy year-round.

If you live in a part of the country that sees snow, it's time to clean and put away lawn furniture (except perhaps cedar furniture, which improves as it weathers). Store it in a place that is protected from water and extreme cold -- such as a tool shed or a corner of the garage -- and cover to protect from spills and dirt.
Wait until most of the leaves have fallen from the trees before raking them up -- it's no use trying to catch them early -- and add to the mulch pile.

Your lawn will probably need one or two mowings before winter sets in, but once that last session is done, lay out your gardening tools in the driveway and inspect them for damage. Clean away bits of grass and dirt from the blades and handles, and coat blades with an all-purpose lubricant like 3-in-1 oil. Wooden handles could use a thin coat of linseed oil, or at least make sure they're clean and dry.

Bathroom Sink Won't Hold Water

Q: The plug in my bathroom sink seems to close all the way, but water will still drain out after I fill the sink. This is pretty annoying. Is there a way to fix it? -- Barbara M., Iowa City

A: Like other leak-stopping areas of your sink, the plug, or stopper, can get gunked up or its gasket can wear out. This can be addressed without too much trouble. You won't need to turn off the water supply to the sink, although you should make sure no one turns on the faucet while you're working. For this job, you'll need channel-type pliers, a small wire brush and a screwdriver.

The control mechanism for a pop-up type stopper is a lever-type assembly called the clevis. It's a vertical rod that extends down from the faucet area and attaches to a horizontal pivot rod, which juts from a retaining nut located on the drain pipe between the drain opening and the P-trap (the big bend in the pipe). The pivot rod is attached to the bottom part of the stopper. When you engage the stopper by pulling up on the clevis, it pulls the pivot rod up and out, yanking the stopper down into place and holding it there.

Dishwasher Odor

Q: I read your recent article on "green" house cleaning and really liked it. I have a dishwasher rather than just washing in the sink, and since your article I have made sure to fill it completely before running. I have had one problem for about a year now, though: My dishwasher always has a mild but noticeable odor when I open it right after a cycle. How can I get rid of this? -- Stephanie D., Titusville, Fla.

A: Over time, food particles and soap residue build up on the inside of your dishwasher. The food particles are most likely to blame for the mild odor, while soap particles can impede the efficiency of the washer.

Fortunately, this is easy to remedy. Empty your dishwasher. Wipe away any visible buildup on the racks and silverware basket. Then, pour one cup of distilled white vinegar into the bottom of the dishwasher. (Don't add soap or any other cleaner.) Shut the door and run the washer for a complete cycle at its highest temperature setting. Repeat this once a month to reduce or eliminate that post-cycle funky smell.

Here are a few additional tips to keep your dishwasher running efficiently, courtesy of www.mrappliance.com:

* Scrape dishes clean before placing in the dishwasher, but don't rinse them.

* Use granular, rather than gel, soap.

* Let dishes run for the full cycle -- don't open the door partway through.

Hurricane Kit

Q: It's prime time for hurricane season, and as I've experienced roof damage from storms before, I would like to know if there's a better way to patch up large-scale damage. The last time it happened, repair crews just stuck blue tarps up on the roof and taped them down. They blew off regularly. Any advice? -- Jim in Pensacola, Fla.

A: Major roof damage is a common issue after large storms, and it's important to cover damaged areas as soon as possible to prevent water damage to the interior. A blue tarp and tape or sealant (like roofing cement) is the fastest way to quickly cover extensive damage. But as many Florida residents found out a few years ago following a series of hurricanes, a tarp is a very temporary measure. Because there weren't enough roofing crews, or supplies, to go around immediately after the storms, residents found themselves scrambling up to their roofs regularly to tack down fraying tarps -- in some cases, for several months.

Ideally, a homeowner's "hurricane kit" should include supplies for temporary patching. If you have the storage space, purchase extra tarps or plastic sheeting, as well as roofing cement and several strips of wood lath. The lath strips can be nailed down over the edges of the tarp or sheeting when covering roof damage, creating a sturdier, albeit still temporary, repair.