How to Win at Not Only Poker and Bridge, But Snacks, Too

When it comes to both finances and fun, "Gourmet Game Night" is a cookbook whose time has come. Those analyzing the recession say we're spending many more nights at home, not only in front of the TV, but also in a renaissance of inexpensive activities, like poker nights, board-game parties, bridge clubs and books groups.

As a financially savvy author, Cynthia Nims saw a niche and deliciously filled it. The formally trained cook and writer of 12 successful cookbooks also simply got tired of getting residue from chips, pizza and other messy snacks on her clothing while engaged in these pursuits.

Nims instead came up with a snazzy spread of no-mess, bite-sized, hand-held snacks that would be satisfying to eat sitting alone at a kitchen table, but all the more fun to share during these recession-ready game nights.

Green Pea and Mint Spread on Crispy Pancetta topped by crispy bites of bacon should make the news when it comes to noshing. If you don't have fresh peas, all it takes to start are thawed frozen ones.

Aged cheddar and a simple dried cherry-almond chutney top baguette slices. Salmon poke is tucked into endive leaves and accompanied by the wow flavors of Asian sesame oil, soy sauce, hot pepper sauce, onion and fresh cilantro.

Even the hot dishes are easy to prepare and just as innovative.

Beef yakitori, served on skewers, is dusted with toasted sesame seeds after marinating in an outstanding teriyaki marinade. Swordfish and fennel skewers are light, yet big on flavor. Bite-sized shrimp cakes come on top of their own shiso leaf for easy handling.

Mini sandwiches, pastries (both savory and sweet) and beverages also get Nims' nimble touch. Along the way, she also advises what parts of recipes can be made ahead and how recipes can either easily be halved or doubled.

In this color photograph-filled gem, Nims displays the best culinary traits for any cookbook genre: fresh ingredients, creatively combined, along with setting her sites on a winning game plan and following it through dedicatedly and deliciously on every page.

AGED CHEDDAR WITH DRIED CHERRY-ALMOND CHUTNEY

Chutney:

4 ounces dried sour cherries, chopped (about 3/4 cup)

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 cup minced red onion

2 tablespoons honey

1/3 cup toasted slivered almonds

Baguettes:

24 baguette slices

8 ounces aged cheddar or other aged cheese (such as Gouda or Gruyere), cut into 1/4-inch slices

Yields 24 pieces.

To prepare chutney: Put the dried cherries and vinegar in a small bowl.
Add hot tap water to just cover the cherries and set aside to plump for about 30 minutes.

Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until tender and aromatic, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the cherries with their liquid and the honey. Cook until most of the liquid has evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

When you are ready to serve, top the baguette slices with the aged cheddar cheese, trimming the cheese into smaller portions as needed to fit on the bread. Stir the toasted almonds into the chutney and spoon a dollop on top of each cheese slice. Arrange the baguette slices on a platter or tray and serve.

Note: To increase recipe, double all ingredients. To decrease recipe, halve the cheese and number of baguette slices. Save any extra chutney for another use. You can make the chutney up to 1 week ahead, cover tightly and refrigerate. Stir in the almonds and assemble up to 1 hour before serving.

SALMON POKE IN ENDIVE LEAVES

3/4 pound previously frozen salmon fillet, skin and pin bones removed

1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion

1/4 cup moderately packed fresh cilantro leaves

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil

1/4 teaspoon Sriracha or other hot pepper sauce, or more to taste

4 to 5 heads Belgian endive, trimmed

Yields 24 leaves.

Cut the salmon into 1/4-inch cube and put it in a bowl with the red onion and cilantro leaves. Stir together the soy sauce, sesame oil and Sriracha sauce in a small dish. Pour this over the salmon and toss gently. Set aside for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring once or twice.

Discard any torn or damaged outer leaves from the endive. Remove leaves that are at least 3 inches long and set aside for serving; you'll need 24 in all. Save the smaller leaves at the core for another use (such as sliced to add to a salad).

To serve: Spoon the salmon poke into the broad end of the endive leaves and arrange them on a platter.

Note: To increase recipe, double or triple all the ingredients. To decrease recipe, halve all the ingredients. You can make the salmon up to 4 hours ahead, tightly cover and refrigerate; the flavors develop more the longer it sits. Assemble in the endive up to 1 hour ahead, cover with lightly dampened paper towels to keep moist and refrigerate.

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook."